miércoles, 31 de octubre de 2012

James Wappel Miniature Painting: Making and painting an Apoxy sculpt base

James Wappel Miniature Painting: Making and painting an Apoxy sculpt base:


Serpentarium: Basing is SIMPLE!

Serpentarium: Basing is SIMPLE!: I think the base is not very difficult. The main issues that arise is what to do and from what. On the first, I probably will go into transcendental wilderness, so long as quiet. With the second easier.
   Little bases that made ​​after talking with We7 THIS THREAD. Do not think they reference, rather a test version. Myself just interesting, could I put together something in 2 cm plastic. Well somehow fit, although sacrificed place for miniatures))
   I invite to discussion. If you have questions on the technology ready to make some tutorials! So WELCOME;)

HopeRiver's Valley: A basing is SIMPLE! (by Ookami)

HopeRiver's Valley: A basing is SIMPLE! (by Ookami):   There is a great news in our SerpentariumOokami published a remarkable guide how to create beautiful stands on standard 20mm bases: Basing is SIMPLE! . In his capable hands it's really easy! Do not miss this guide and try to do it by yourself!

martes, 30 de octubre de 2012

Laserburn: Marines Espaciales del Caos a través de la histori...

Laserburn: Marines Espaciales del Caos a través de la histori...: Otro vídeo más, esta vez, con un breve paseo que hacemos en nuestra sección de coleccionar, por la gama de miniaturas de los Marines Espaciales del Caos desde 1988 hasta el Codex que acaba de aparecer.

blog de Pablo El Marques: Cultistas del Caos TERMINADOS

blog de Pablo El Marques: Cultistas del Caos TERMINADOS: Por fin puedo presentar el lote de Cultistas del Caos TERMINADO de pintar. Os dejo con un pequeño resumen, un montón de fotos y al final mi opinión sobre este trabajo

miércoles, 24 de octubre de 2012

Thor-Modelling Studio: Tutorial: How to Paint Cracked Leather

Thor-Modelling Studio: Tutorial: How to Paint Cracked Leather: I've decided to separate this tutorial from Lord of The Gabrax article and post it again in a tutorials section for ease of searching. :)
(Note, reference images will help to understand the nature of cracked leather easier, as shown on the pictures below.)

martes, 23 de octubre de 2012

James Wappel Miniature Painting: The return to Altdorf begins...

James Wappel Miniature Painting: The return to Altdorf begins...:I have a series of Empire figures well under way... a variety of Forgeworld and Finecast. This is the first one, and it's one I enjoyed, given the Witch Hunter feel. :-)  All of the colors I will be doing on these will be for Altdorf.

sábado, 20 de octubre de 2012

Desert Sand Dunes

Desert Sand Dunes:
     Hello Ladies and Gents. Today I'm going to show you how to make Desert Sand Dunes on your Wargaming Bases. To do such a thing you will require wargaming base, PVA glue, modelling sand, a piece of green stuff, some brushes and some hand cream or any other cream. 

martes, 16 de octubre de 2012

Power Armoured Metal: Showcase: Custom Objective markers

Power Armoured Metal: Showcase: Custom Objective markers: 2/3 of standard 40k missions involve objectives, so it is hard to avoid them. Whilst the GW neon-green products are quite nice, sometimes yo

lunes, 15 de octubre de 2012

The Grand Old Flag

The Grand Old Flag: When I ran across the images of my converted Justicar figure the other day, if got me thinking about this piece, which was created not long afterward.  I liked that banner idea so much, I just had to work that in with this figure.

Reaper and Warmachine Inquisitor converts

Reaper and Warmachine Inquisitor converts:Following the previous Demonhunter conversion post, we have some more minis that I substituted for Inquisitorial henchmen.  I wish I still had these ladies, which I used as Death Cult Assassins, now that you can have huge bunches of them!  I believe these Warmachine figures are from the Witch Coven of Gharlast.

domingo, 14 de octubre de 2012

Ultramarines SternGuard Step by Step

Ultramarines SternGuard Step by Step:
Muchas veces me habéis preguntado como pinto los Ultramarines, o me habéis pedido que escriba un paso a paso del proceso. Asimismo me habéis pedido la receta del azul, pero parece que no ha quedado del todo clara. Creo que ya va siendo hora de aclarar algunas dudas. Voy a mostraros el proceso completo de pintura de un Ultramarine veterano de la guardia. No es exactamente igual a una tropa de linea, pero a partir de aquí podréis pintar cualquier tipo de Ultramarine sin el menor problema.

Space Marine Captain Painting Tutorial

Space Marine Captain Painting Tutorial:I'm coming back to painting after quite a long time. After looking back at the models I've done in the past, I realized I need to update my painting style (and my paints since the GW paints are different now). So I decided to paint the assault on Black Reach captain that has been sitting around unpainted for far too long. More pictures below.

Converting non-GW figures for Inquisitor retinues

Converting non-GW figures for Inquisitor retinuesMy original Demonhunters army always had at least 2, of not 4 Inquisitors with retinues.  As a result, I needed a lot of retinue figures!  I had a decent amount of official Acolytes, familiars, along with a smattering of servitors, but I definitely needed much more.  As a result, I decided to have some fun making the needed conversions from figures at hand.

sábado, 13 de octubre de 2012

Tutorial: How to make a snow-covered cliff (3)

Tutorial: How to make a snow-covered cliff (3): 15. I begin making the snow by starting with icicles. I discovered this technique from reading David Soper’s Blog (Sproket's Small World - making icicles) and it is indeed very useful. You can read it below;
- Clear plastic sheet is cut into many small triangular shapes of various sizes. Attach them to left over runner sprue.

viernes, 12 de octubre de 2012

Tutorial: How to make a snow-covered cliff (2)

Tutorial: How to make a snow-covered cliff (2): 7. Using the airbrush, the cliff section was primed black, while the snow covered grounds are primed white.

Tutorial: How to make a snow-covered cliff (1)

Tutorial: How to make a snow-covered cliff (1):
(Translated by Krittadhi Boonvichitr (Independent Translator) 

Once again, I will make a tutorial on how to create a snow covered cliff by using the Lord of Gabrax’s display base as an example.  As the idea was to create a display base that would make the miniature stand out, the theme of mountain cliff was used. I made the cliff a bit high with the top end looking like overhanging rocks, so that there’s some space underneath to add in some icicles. This way I could make the display base more detailed. The base would then be covered in snow to make the base become more ‘in line’ with the overall image and feel of the miniature.
You can find images of the finished project by following the link [HERE].

jueves, 11 de octubre de 2012

Dark Vengeance Librarian Finished Tutorial

Dark Vengeance Librarian Finished Tutorial: Here's the final pics and video tutorial for the Dark Angels Librarian Turmiel from the Dark Vengeance box.

Cultistas: numero 2 terminado

Cultistas: numero 2 terminado:
Aquí traigo otros dos ratitos de pintureo con los Cultistas del Caos.

Una mini-sesión de pintura.

Numero 2: He perfilado con pintura negra varias zonas que se habían quedado brillantes con la tinta negra. Remarcado de detalles: botones camisa, pinchos mascara, fusil.

Converted Grey Knights Psycannons

Converted Grey Knights Psycannons:
Tonight we have some of my old Grey Knight psycannons that I made for a Purgation squad.  Remember those?

Converted Grey Knights incinerators

Converted Grey Knights incinerators: This time I have some images of Converted Grey Knight Incinerators.  The weapons were done in the same manner as the psycannons, using that special grey sculpey.

Shiny things: An early experiment with reflections

Shiny things: An early experiment with reflections: These are some Grey Knights I did back in the days when I first started playing my Demonhunters army.  I wanted to have a shiny, reflective armor look.  I had been doing the Sky-earth NMM for a few years, and I thought this could be an interesting test to do something besides "earth" for the ground half.

Old time Justicars

Old time Justicars: All right, another stroll down the Demonhunter memory lane.  This morning we have a series of justicars that I made for my original Demonhunters army.  The first piece was a very fun conversion that I did, which became the basis for a few Grand Master conversions later on.  I am pretty sure those have been posted already.

El diorama de edición limitada de Ephrael Stern & Silas Hand

El diorama de edición limitada de Ephrael Stern & Silas Hand:

Ephrael Stern

Ephrael Stern era una Hermana de Batalla de la Orden de Nuestra Señora Martirizada, que estaba predestinada a adquirir poderes psíquicos especiales que sobrepasaban grandemente a los de un psíquico normal.

Tutorial: Making a Thunderhawk flying stand

Tutorial: Making a Thunderhawk flying stand: If you followed the Thunderhawk assembly blog entries last October, then you'll know I love using power tools. Today I got to play with some power tools and start construction of my Thunderhawk's base.  Read on for a step by step account.

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #8

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #8: The interior and the pilots are complete. Lots of pictures in this blog update of the insides and the constituent parts. Read on for more.

Showcase: The Primarch Angron

Showcase: The Primarch Angron: Had a lot of fun painting this guy. Hope you like the photos :)

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #7

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #7: The exterior is complete! This week I've spent way too much time painting rust around rivets and chips on armour. I will never get those 7 hours back... 7 hours just to weather a Thunderhawk. I must be crazy. Read on to see what else I've accomplished since the last WIP post.

Showcase: Howling Griffon

Showcase: Howling Griffon: Just for fun, not a test piece, I've always wanted to paint a Howling Griffon! More odd bods to follow in the next few weeks. More pics after the jump.

WIP: Thunderhawk #6

WIP: Thunderhawk #6: I've been painting the details on my Thunderhawk. I've painted the side access doors, the aquillas, and the metal vent areas on the roof. It's only a small update so no pics after the jump.

Tales from the Network #21

Tales from the Network #21:



This is Tales from the Network, the semi-regular feature on Tale of Painters. This is the place where we will present you the best posts from our friends and fellow bloggers from the ever-growing Tale of Painters Blog Network. It's been a while since our last update, so it's no surprise there have been a couple of great posts in the meantime:




Don't miss the latest hobby updates from the Network by checking out the widget on the right - there are more cool posts hidden there that aren't covered here!

Do you want your blog featured on Tales from the Network as well? Join the Tale of Painters Blog Network - we're already over 240 blogs strong! Joining is easy - click here and learn how.

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #5

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #5:

At last some detail work! I use the term detail very loosely because the engines are the same length as a Land Raider and the Turbo Laser is the length of a Rhino APC. Read on for some close ups of the Thunderhawk's guns, engines and landing gear. 







I painted all the metals by brush (a very large one). Everything received a solid base coat of GW Warplock Bronze. Then the metal areas were painted with Leadbelcher, washed with Nuln Oil and then dry brush highlighted with Ironbreaker. The Bronze areas were painted with Hashut Copper washed with Agrax Earthshade and then drybrush highlighted with Brass Scorpion. Very simple but effective way to paint such huge areas.


 

What to paint next? Well the there are a few Imperial Aquila icons on the model that need painting, and the door detail needs painting, so I think raised icon details are next. This also means I need to paint the name of the thunderhawk onto the nose scroll work, any suggestions for names greatly appreciated, not too long please. Thanks.



 I still have to start work on the base. My acrylic rod and forstner drill bit arrived so at least I can construct it. I was thinking about content for the base and I've decided for the desert theme I'm going to have a skeleton carcass sticking out of the sand. Now I just need to find a toy dinosaur skeleton.



So much still to do.

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #4

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #4:

In this update you can see I've added a diagonal stripe to either side of the hull and three large Ultramarine symbols, two on the wings and one on the nose. All of these elements have been added to help break up the massive amount of blue and I think it really works. More pics after the jump.






I masked off the stripe and U symbols. I actually only made one U stencil mask and just reused it for all three icons. I sprayed the areas with VGC Wolf Grey and then shaded this using VGC sombre grey through the airbrush. Finally I mist the areas with VGC Dead White to brighten it up. Once the tape was removed I had a really convincing result because of how the blue and white are both highlighted and shaded. If it was a bold white stripe or icon with no shading it wouldn't have worked and I think it would have shattered the illusion. 




Next update I'll show the Thunderhawk with the wing and nose mounted heavy bolters glued on and hopefully, the jet engines, turbo laser and landing gear will all be painted in metals and bronze. 

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #3

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #3:


I'm now starting to get into this project. It's the biggest airbrush project I've tried (slightly bigger then my Harridan, but far more complex). I've really enjoyed the precision of this project so far. I can't believe I've lined and highlighted the whole thing with an airbrush! If you compare it to the previous picture the shading isn't as harsh. This is because I gave the entire model a light misting of Ultramarine blue and this has tied it all together nicely. I like the depth it's created, despite it being flat panels and boxy it seems to have some depth to it which I think is great. I'm really enjoying using my airbrush as a tool to get better results rather then to speed paint minis.



I suspect this model might take over a month to complete, I wonder if I should break the project up and paint some smaller stuff in-between? Perhaps I'll treat the base of this huge flyer as a separate project. Speaking of the base, I have ordered 300mm long acrylic rod which is 20mm in diameter and a 20mm forstner dill bit. I will be using this drill bit to create a hole in the plywood base and the bottom of the Thunderhawk. Fingers crossed it works and I don't destroy my hawk.

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #2

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #2:

I forced myself to paint the Thunderhawk two nights in a row. I want to keep the momentum going and keep chipping away at it. This step was all about lining the armour panels with the airbrush. I've gone for a near black dark blue. I plan to give the ship a light misting of Ultramarine blue to blend the shading in a bit. Then I will highlight the panels with the airbrush. Read on for some more thoughts on painting this humongous craft. 



To break up the blue I'm planning on masking off and airbrushing on a diagonal white line on the side of the craft. I will also stencil on some large Ultramarine U symbols on the main wings and the nose below the front of the cockpit. I will also do a skull and lightning bolt motif freehand above the front wings. Heavy bolters are mounted on the side of the nose so that's a no go area for freehand. 


At some point I need to think of a flying base. I've made one in the past for my Harridan, but I'm wondering if anyone had any suggestions or examples?

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #1

WIP: Thunderhawk Gunship #1:


Today I fanned the muck up and revisited a project that has been sat on my desk for months now. I undercoated and basecoated my Thunderhawk gunship. I feel it's a bit of a milestone getting the blue paint on the old bird and I just hope the momentum will carry me through and I can get more of it complete.

Tutorial: How to paint Ravenwing and Deathwing

Tutorial: How to paint Ravenwing and Deathwing:


In a follow up of Monday's Dark Angel tutorial, today we'll explore how to apply the techniques you learnt there to the Deathwing and Ravenwing models of your copy of Dark Vengeance. We also give you some ideas how to paint the blue armour of your Librarian and how to paint skin.





Painting Deathwing



For the armour of the Deathwing Terminators I used the same technique as for painting bone in our original Dark Angels tutorial. For armies that have a lot of different looking units it's key to keep your palette limited and to pick up colours from one unit or model and apply them on another.



Instead of priming the models black and then basecoating them with Bleached Bone [Ushabti Bone], I recommend priming with Skeleton Bone colour primer from The Army Painter, which is essentially Bleached Bone in a spray can. This will save so much time, because building up an even coat of Bleached Bone over black (or even over white) primer takes a couple of layers. If you can't find Army Painter's Colour Primers at your local game store, check out the full Army Painter range at Wayland Games.



So after I got my basecoat done, I painted VGC Brown Ink directly into the recesses, cleaned everything up with Bleached Bone and highlighted with Screaming Skull and Ceramite White.



Weapons and other details on the model can be painted just as explained as in our original tutorial. For the chest eagle use the same technique and paints as for the dark green armour. You can also paint the tabbard of your Sergeant dark green to increase the amount of green to your unit, this will help to tie your Deathwing units to the rest of your army. Feathers, purity seals and other ornaments and embellishments of the armour can be painted the same way as the robe in our original tutorial - I did this with the little skull on the hand guard on the example below.





Painting Ravenwing



The traditional black armour of the Ravenwing can be painted in the same way like the black underskirt of our regular Marine, described in step 4 of our original tutorial. I recommend using Army Painter's Matt Black primer for Ravenwing models, as it creates a very dark and rich black basecoat. Games Workshop's primer often comes out slightly greyish and would require a coat of Abbadon Black to even it out, wasting valuable painting time.



Once the basecoat was ready, I highlighted with Eshin Grey and Codex Grey [Dawnstone]. Weapons and bone embellishments were painted as usual.



To add a little hint of green and to better match your Ravenwing units with the rest of your army, I recommend painting the eye lenses with VGC Mutation Green [Warboss Green] and highlighting them with Skarsnik Green, instead of red lenses like on our regular Marine. You could also paint the inside of your Ravenwing Seargent's robe or the wax of the purity seals in dark green, to add a couple more spots of green.





Painting blue Librarian armour



The technique for painting the armour of your Librarian is the same like on your regular Marines, you just need to exchange the greens for blues. A recipe that worked really well for me on my Ultramarines can found in this tutorial: Painting Ultramarines the Stahly way. Note that this one uses the old Citadel paints. To convert them to the new range of Citadel Colours, I advise basecoating with Macragge Blue, shading with Vallejo Game Colour Black Ink (or thinned Abaddon Black), and highlighting with Calgar Blue and VGC Steel Blue [Fenrisian Grey]. Note that this will result in a lighter blue armour as in my Ultramarines tutoria thoughl, as Macragge Blue is significantly lighter than old Mordian Blue. For acchieving a darker blue armour with the new Citadel paint range, I recommend a basecoat of Cantor Blue, shading with VGC Black Ink or thinned Abaddon Black, and highlights with Alaitoc Blue and Hoeth Blue.



Painting skin



Some of the Dark Angels in Dark Vengeance show exposed flesh, like the Libarian or the Ravenwing Sergeant. We published a tutorial for painting faces on Tale of Painters a while ago, check it out here. It uses the old Citadel flesh tones, but you can see exactly where to place your highlights and learn an easy way to paint eyes. To convert this tutorial to the new paint system, basecoat with Bugman's Glow, layer with Cadian Fleshtone [Tallarn Flesh] and highlight with Kislev Flesh and a mix of Kislev Flesh and white. The new flesh tones from Citadel are more muted and caucasian, unlike the bright tan of the old paints. Quite fitting for the sombre theme of the Dark Angels actually.



We hope that you learnt everything you need to know about painting your Dark Angels from Dark Vengeance by now. If anyone uses our tutorials, we'd love to see you posting links to your models in the comments!



Do you like our tutorials and reviews? Here is what you can do to support us: Check out the websites of our sponsors, place your next orders at Wayland Games by clicking here or on the banners on the right, or at Total Wargamer by clicking here or at the banners on the right. Thank you very much, we appreciate any help to keep us going!

Tutorial: How to Paint the Chaos Helbrute from Dark Vengeance

Tutorial: How to Paint the Chaos Helbrute from Dark Vengeance:

The Helbrute is the centrepiece model in the Dark Vengeance boxed game. It's a dynamically posed possessed Dreadnought that is terrifying to behold. We were all stunned to discover no painting guide included in the boxed game or White Dwarf. I decided to take matters into my own hands and with a couple of days hard graft, I'm pleased to present to you a comprehensive painting guide for the Helbrute but can also be used for the Chaos Chosen and Chaos Lord. Click more after the jump and once you've read it, please share it with your friends and the hobby community. We deserve free painting guides!


The tutorial will be broken up into steps of four. It will show a picture split into four and numbered. Underneath that picture will be four written steps with corresponding numbers. Each picture segment will show you the paint you need for the step and the corresponding text will explain the step. Simple.




1. Undercoat the model black. I use Vallejo Surface Primer, for more information on this product check out this review.

2. Base coat the entire model with Screamer Pink. I used my airbrush to apply this coat. it's a base paint so you can paint it on with just a couple of coats.

3. Mix Pink Horror and Screamer Pink together (50:50) and paint it onto all the fleshy parts of the model.

4. Paint over the fleshy parts with Pink Horror. Try to leave some of the previous layer showing through as shading.







5. Wash Carroburg Crimson into the recesses of the fleshy parts.  Don't cover the fleshy parts, just the recesses to add more depth to the shading. 
6. Mix Ceramite White into Pink Horror and paint onto all the raised fleshy parts. Mix some more Ceramite white into the mix to bring the highlighting up a bit. Everytime you paint a successive layer onto top of the previous layer leave some of the previous layer showing through. 
7. Shade the Armour panels with a watery mix of Rhinox Hide and Screamer Pink. Run it around the brasswork detailing.
8. Highlight the armour panels with a 50:50 mix of Wazdakka Red and Screamer Pink.



9. Paint the armour panels with pure Wazdakka Red. Make sure you leave plenty of the previous layers showing through because it creates a deep rich crimson colour. 
10. Paint all the metal areas with Warplock Bronze. This includes, vents on fleshy tubes, gun muzzles, smoke stacks and all the edging on the armour.
11. Paint all the armour's edging with Brass Scorpian.
12. To age the brass work, we want a verdigris effect. I've mixed together Teclis Blue and Warpstone Glow with a lot of water and run the mix around the brass work.



13. Highlight the brass work with Runelord Brass. Feel free to do a fine edge highlight of Runefang Steel to make the brass standout more.
14. Paint the remaining metal areas with Ironbreaker. You'll notice i've left Warplock Bronze on the ends of the smoke stacks and gun barrels. 
15. The next step is to black in all the detail with Abaddon Black. While you're using black drybrush the ends of the smoke stacks and gun barrels.  For the horns, try to paint Eshin Grey lines running down the length of the horns and spikes. 
16. Using Dawnstone paint shorter lines on top of the Eshin Grey lines. Paint to the end of the tip. 


17. Final highlight of Adminstratum Grey. Use a smaller brush for this final line on the horns. If you need to tidy up with Abaddon black by painting lines between the grey lines.
18. Cover the horns and areas painted with Ironbreaker with Nuln Oil. This will help tie together the blending on the horns and shade the silver metallics. 
19. The model has several eyes. You could just paint these as part of the brass work or like me you could paint them as small daemonic eyes. I painted a base colour of Teclis Blue, then painted Temple Guard Blue in the centre of the eye. I washed it with a blue wash and then painted a black vertical pupil .
20. The tentacles are base coat Thunderhawk Blue, Highlight Russ Grey then Fenrisian Grey, cover in Asurman Blue Wash and final highlight of Ulthuan Grey.



20. This just leaves the face to paint. I base coated the flesh with Ungor Flesh, washed it with Carroburg Crimson then highlighted with Screaming Skull. I didn't want the head of the pilot (prisoner?) to be the same colour skin of the daemon engine so I painted it a more human tone but the red wash helps tie it to the rest of the scheme and shows he's not quite human (or maybe alive).

I haven't detailed how to paint the base, because you will all want to paint your bases to match your own armies or gaming tables. 

That's it. My version of the Crimson Slaughter's Helbrute. I like to think I've achieved a more Crimson coloured model then the bright red one that Eavy Metal painted. I also like the aged brass instead of the bright gold they did too. The garish daemonic skin colour wouldn't look out of place on a Keeper of Secret's dressing gown, but I prefer the skin to be skin rather then the same colour as the armour. 

Here is a little bonus picture for you guys and girls... it's the Assault on Black Reach Dreadnought Vs the Dark Vengeance Helbrute!


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